Thursday, July 12, 2012

Georgia_ Kazbegi Beauty

Kazbegi , a beautiful getaway along the Georgian Military Highway.The Georgian Military Highway is the route that leads from Georgia to one of the most dangerous areas in the Russian Caucasus ,Chechnya.

A trip to Kazbegi guarantees a treat for your eyes with the beautiful scenary as the marshrutka makes it way from Tbilisi up into the mountains.Snow capped mountains and churches perched on the cliffs , lifestock that share the same road .

Buses leave from the Central Bus station around 930am when the bus fills up.As Kazbegi is a popular tourist attraction , half the marshrutka was filled with tourists going for a weekend stay.A Japanese couple travelling around the world for the past 2 years , a Dutch guy , Patrick who speaks Japanese and a few others.Patrick eventually became our travel companion in Kazbegi.

Upon arrival in the town in the mid afternoon, we were greeted by a huge group of babushki offering us a chance to stay in their cozy homes with hot showers and hot meals thrown in for 15Laris per night.Speaking Russian here became a huge asset and it became extremely easy securing a place to stay in.A babushka grapped Nicky by her hand and rattled on hoping to convince Nicky that she had the best house in town.Roping Patrick in , the 3 of us headed off to babushka's house which was a 1 minute walk from the bus station.

Babushka's bragging was way above our expectations and it was indeed a modern house with a stunning backyard view of Mt Kazbegi and Tsminda Sameba Church perched at the top.

Things to do in Kazbegi
1.Check out Gveleti Waterfall 7-8km from Kazbegi
2.Hike up to Tsminda Sameba Church
3.Watch teenagers dressed in stylish clothes drinking beer and walking round and round the town's main square , Stalinis moedani because there is no where else to walk to or hang out at.

There are more things to do besides the 3 listed acitivities ie ( Hiking up to the Gergeti Glacier 900m ascent up from Tsminda Sameba Church or checking out the Tamar's castle 10km from Kazbegi.

Gveleti Waterfall
The 3 of us set off to look for the Waterfall.After approximately 7-8km along the Georgian Military Highway out of Kazbegi , we finally saw a half faded sign of a potential tourist attraction.It could be start of the trek to the waterfall.The trek was not an easy one for a person wearing flip flops as the path was filled with loose rocks.However , there is blue paint markings on the rocks along the way to guide trekkers.

Our next task was to try to hitch a ride back to Kazbegi to no avail.Walking in the rain , we started thinking about the sumptious dinner that we hoped babushka would prepare for us when we reached back to Kazbegi.

Meals by Babushka
Babushka announced that she ran out of gas to cook dinner and was unable to buy any gas from the shops in the evening.She managed to pan fried oily potatoes and gave us bread and a choice of either juice or home made Georgian white wine.Sitting in the dark living room exhausted from the walk with a tv in front of us playing a spanish drama serial dubbed in Russian , we downed the carbohydrates.We had expected traditional Georgian food , so the disappointment was evident.However , those were the best potatoes i had in a very long time.

Breakfast was a more cheerful affair with the room lighted up by the early sunrise.Babushka was in a good mood and started chatting with us.Her daughter works in Germany.Babushka has been to Germany herself , she managed to speak a few sentences in German.According to Babushka , i am not the first Singaporean who lived in her house!It would have been cool if she did take a photo of every guest that stayed with her.She went on to tease Patrick for picking juice over wine for a breakfast drink , declaring that in Georgia , men drink wine for breakfast.It was amazing to be greeted with the aroma of sausages and eggs after a good night sleep in the comfortable beds that she offered.With the amazing weather in the morning , excitement was building up for the hike up to see the Tsminda Sameba Church.
As we left the house ,babushka was amazed that i was going to hike up in flip flops tied to my feet with a green shoelace." I am a crazy Singaporean girl" , i told her.She smiled and shook her head.
Tsminda Sameba Church
Lonely Planet states a 1.5 hour walk from the city center to the church.We did it in 40minutes.Emerging out from the forested area after 40 minutes , our mouth dropped.That's it.The church with a snow capped mountain background sitting in a distance , with no tourist groups anywhere near the church.It is possible to drive up to the church .Most people visit the church on a 4wheel Drive.But the sense of accomplishment hiking up made the view alot sweeter.Words can't describe the beauty that Georgian tourism stands to offer here.

Gergeti Glacier
We attempted to hike up to the Gergeti Glacier 900m ascent up from Tsminda Sameba Church.Due to the unstable snow and ice conditions on the rocks leading up to the Glacier , i had give up the attempt halfway and plant myself on the slope waiting for Patrick and Nicky to return.The route up was filled with thorny plants which made grasping plants for support impossible.what a relief that those plants were not poisonous.Judging from all the scratches received from thorns , it certainly is not flip flop friendly.A couple of hikers passed by and said hi.Nicky and Patrick gave up on the hike to the glacier due to time constraints and turned back.Meeting the hikers along the way , they all mentioned about the girl with the bright green shoelace sitting on the slope on the way up.Ying is still alive. 

And we headed back to catch the bus back to Tbilisi.Kazbegi was indeed a beautiful getaway in the mountains .And for those with limited time in Georgia and are in Tbilisi , Kazbegi is the place to go in order to experience the mountainous beauty of Georgia in the shortest period of time.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Georgian Gems

Where is Georgia?
Surrounded by Russia, Turkey,Armenia & Azerbaijan , this country rich in culture and history is certainly a gem.One of the former USSR states that is trying to modernize fast and attract foreign investments.

When?
2 weeks in June 2011


Why?
Probably Crazy.

Rumour has it 
That Georgia is dangerous.Especially with her tense relationship with Russia.

Truth is
Amazingly beautiful country with a different landscape.
While the country tries to be westernized , people are generally conservative especially those in their 30ties and above.


Monday, June 20, 2011

Capital : Kiev

Kiev, capital of the the Ukraine.Where 50% of the people speak Russian and the other 50% speak Ukrainian.Zhenya ,my friend from Kharkov had arranged for me to stay with a friend of hers.( I'm terrible.I forgot her name and I lost her contact as well because her name and email went missing after my notebook and bag was stolen in Malaysia after my trip to the Ukraine ).Let's call her A.A works for a french company and leads an active life ice skating and horse back riding.Her sister is a really attractive model.A is another Ukrainian who lived life to the fullest and is always busy experiencing the best things in life.

It was nice to finally be in a home again,,wash and get some clean clothes.The Chernobyl museum ,Lavra monastry ,Famine museum were some of the highlights including the many churches in the city.The museums here are amazing.They moved me to tears.The pain and tortured suffered by the Ukrainians.

I was shopping around for books on Tymoshenko in english.But apparently the bookshops in Kiev did not stock up on books on Tymoshenko in english.It was a good thing that i didn't buy any books anyway.The weight of my backpack was killing me.

Unfortunately for me, on my 2nd last day in Ukraine, and Kiev, I received some really bad news that I had to return back to Singapore to get my next visa to Russia done,instead of getting it done in Istanbul, my next stop.

Kiev is an amazing city and the people I met here are similarly really cool.It was a great way to sum up my trip in the Ukraine.Insane ,exhausting and totally enriching.And I only have fantastic stories to tell the world and and inspire the people around me to head to the Ukraine for that interesting experience.


West Ukraine :Lvov

1 day in Lvov and it was raining the whole day.I was stuck at Macdonalds with a guidebook and a camera.I've been told of a cool bar in Lvov where you can enter if you know the password and you'll have an amazing experience inside.But in the rain , it was difficult to locate anything.

Running from shelter to shelter,cold and tired,looking for internet cafes and bookstores.The day trip to Lvov turned out to be a sad one.Filled with plenty of food to drown my sorrows.Thanks to the rain.

The roads were a little more difficult to navigate around in because unlike most cities in Russia and Ukraine, the roads were curvy and you can get easily lost wandering around.But you spring into the more interesting sights when you lose your bearings.

I was determined to see the castle at the top of the hill , in a bid to save my trip to Lvov.It turned out that this замок was a little building where weddings were held.Or perhaps I didn't hike up enough to see the actual castle.

I wish i can return to this city on a sunny day and hopefully reverse this sad experience into a cheerful optimistic one.

On the bright side, i bought my favourite souvenir here.A Ukrainian doll!Which comes with a small bag with wheat at the side and some свiточ chocolates.In the times of the USSR,свiточ  chocolates were considered premium quality.It is still based in Lvov but has been acquired by Nestle (What hasn't? ).






Carpathians : Kolomyya

I loved Kolomyya! My favourite day trip in my 12 day trip around the Ukraine.

Waking up at 7am in the morning, i tipped toed out of the room trying not to wake Romain ( the other couchsurfing guest up).I headed to the bus station to catch the first bus to Kolomyya.

It was Sunday.And sunday in Kolomyya means....Sunday market!Everyone brings their 2nd hand goods to the market and hope to sell something.So you get to see all sorts of knick knacks.From 2nd hand clothes,shoes,radios and all sorts of screws and rusty things.Even tombstones!The market was outdoors and people just found a spot on the pavement and started displaying their wares.

I was looking at some soviet pins.And the owner of the table got curious about me.Surprised to find out that I am from Singapore, he announced I was here.The old man he was serving before that, stood there and watch me in curosity.People cycling by,stopped and watched me.
The owner started asking me tons of questions and said that it was a pity that i was staying for so short a time.He would have loved to bring me to see his dacha in the countryside where everything is more beautiful,especially in summer.(perhaps not a very good idea for a girl to follow a 50+year old man to his dacha, but it's the thought that counts isn't it?)

One of the key atttractions in Kolomyya is the Ukrainian Egg Museum( Pysanky Museum )!You find these eggs being sold all over russia but ukrainians claim that it originated from the Ukrainian and they have their very unique style of painting them too.

The Museum of Hutsul Folk Art was interesting as well.Descriptions next to the museum showpieces were in ukrainian and english.(no russian translation)

The one thing i really miss from Kolomyya and some of the cities in Russia was the Pampushky (Doughnuts) especially those with savoury fillings.You can find them sold by old grannies walking around the market.So fresh , so light.It makes american sweet doughnuts taste artificial with heaps of sugar.

I guess I just love savoury doughnuts more!


Central Ukraine : Kamyanet Polidsky

After tea with Luba, I set off to visit Kamyanet Polidsky.A 2hour bus ride away.Known to have a breathetaking castle there.The castle didn't wow me over.But the museum in the castle did.Dimmed with red lights.The ukrainians sure know how to make museums dramatic and interesting.The city wasn't very interesting but it definately looks like it has the qualities to stage a medival sword fighting.And indeed in October,the Terra Heroika Festival is held here.

See link : http://www.ukraine.com/videos/terra+heroika+08+preparations+for+a+military+parade+01/343291/



Carpathians : Chernitvsi

Chernitvsi surprised me.I never expected a Ukrainian city to look so european.The streets were cobbled and the buildings were victorian styled.

I was staying with a host I met over couchsurfing,Luba.After getting changed,I was happy to finally be somewhere homely and meeting people again!Her passion for photography was evident.She was more comfortable speaking in Russian and we had a pleasent conversation about our lifes.There are not many couchsurfing hosts in Chernitvsi and Luba was really kind to let couchsurfers stay with her.

That night, i met another couchsurfer at her place.
wait a minute...i saw this guy running for the bus half an hour ago in the city in the middle of the night!He got onto the bus to Luba's place.I didn't run fast enough , so i had to wait 20minutes for the next bus.He is from France and did an internship in Romania.

Chernitvsi is a city you can check out in just one day.But it is a great place to start from to check out other interesting cities nearby.Like Kolomyya and Kamyanet Polidsky.

I swear that I didn't see a single asian person here.Perhaps asians only study in the russian speaking cities in the Ukraine.